Days out: Exploring the River Waveney

The River Waveney from Geldeston to Oulton Broad

#5 in our series of Days out in the Broads

With miles of beautiful scenery, the River Waveney in the Southern Broads is the perfect place to explore. This full day itinerary will start and finish in the historic market town of Beccles. Beccles is full of history. The narrow streets and quaint architecture are home to lots of independent shops and cafés. Much of the town’s architecture has a strong Flemish influence. The popular quayside, once a herring port, is now home to the myriad of cruisers which moor here.

Option 1 – Explore by boat

Enjoying a trip on a day boat at Beccles

A short walk out of town will take you to Gillingham Dam and Hippersons Boatyard, where you can pick up your day boat. Free parking is also available.

Hippersons offer day boats and houseboats for longer stays. Canoes and kayaks are also available for hire in high season. (Book your day boat in advance to avoid disappointment.)

Leave the boatyard and turn port (left).

Go under the road bridge and past the sailing club on the starboard side. You will enter a really beautiful stretch of the River Waveney. Keep an eye out for wildlife: herons, kingfishers, marsh harriers, otters and barn owls can all been seen along this stretch.

A little further along you will come to the Beccles old railway bridge and it is best to steer through on the port side (left).

Continue on your journey until you reach Waveney River Centre at Burgh St Peter (approximately 1.45 hours). You will see the entrance, where you can steer in and moor up to take the ferry over to SWT Carlton Marshes Nature Reserve or you can continue downriver to Oulton Broad and take the 20-minute walk back to the reserve.

The park is set in beautiful surroundings with fabulous views across the Norfolk and Suffolk marshes and a wealth of on-park facilities. Visit The Waveney Inn, a popular riverside pub and restaurant with its fabulous outdoor decking area.

Another 45 minutes or so downriver and you will arrive at Oulton Broad. Oulton Broad Yacht Station is very busy during July and August, particularly for Oulton Week in late August, and the Gala weekend over the August bank holiday, therefore advanced booking is strongly recommended during this period.

From Oulton Broad it is possible to join the Angles Way footpath for a 20-minute walk to SWT Carlton Marshes. Carlton Marshes Nature Reserve lies at the southern tip of the Broads National Park and comprises over 1000 acres of beautiful Suffolk grazing marsh, fens and peat pools teeming with interesting plantlife, such as the insectivorous bladderwort, which traps and digests water fleas in bladder-like sacs under water. Scan the dyke edges too, for a glimpse of Britain’s biggest spider, the fen raft spider which was released here in 2012 to bolster the precariously low UK population.

The trip back to Beccles will take roughly 2.5 hours.

Option 2 – Explore by canoe or kayak

Kayaking with Hipperson's Boatyard — Kayaking with Hipperson’s Boatyard

Canoes and kayaks can be hired from Three Rivers Pitch & Paddle in Geldeston and (Please book in advance to avoid disappointment.)

Once on the water you can explore the River Waveney between Geldeston and Beccles. Keener paddlers will comfortably make it to Beccles from Geldeston and back in 3 hours. However, going at a more leisurely pace with time for some breaks you should allow 6 hours.

This is a lovely, tranquil stretch of river with few large boats.

From Geldeston village paddle down the dyke and at the end turn right on to the River Waveney towards Geldeston Lock. You can tie up and get out at The Locks Inn, where they serve traditional home-cooked food using locally produced ingredients.

The Locks Inn is one of the oldest pubs in the Broads, with a fascinating history. In 1670 an Act of Parliament was passed to improve the navigation upstream of Beccles and three locks were built, at Geldeston, Ellingham and Wainford. This made it possible for sailing wherries laden with cargo to travel to Bungay, with its brewing and malting industries. Ellingham and Geldeston were also railway stations on the now dismantled Waveney Valley Line, on the north side of the river, opened in the early 1860s.

From Geldeston Lock, continue back in the direction you came, along the river towards Beccles.

As you pass Dunburgh Hill on the left look out for marsh harriers that nest in the reeds there close to the ground. Continue past Barsham Marshes on your right. There is evidence here of a Bronze Age river crossing or ferry point.

Towards Beccles the large buildings on the right-hand side are part of the old industrial area of the town which included maltings, glassworks and tanneries.

Return your canoe or kayak to the hire operator and head into Beccles.

Option 3 – sit back and relax

Skippered boat trips are available on the River Waveney from Waveney River Tours at Oulton Broad, who also hire day boats. Waveney Stardust Trust provide fully accessible boat trips from Gillingham Dam. (Booking is essential.)

Once you’re back in Beccles Seek out the bell tower of St Michael’s church. The church dates from the 1500s and is unusual as its tower is separate from the rest of the building. The tower has three clock faces but not a fourth. The side without a clock is the one facing Norfolk, a reminder that the river is the boundary between Suffolk and Norfolk. Standing on a cliff overlooking the river, the bell tower rises an additional 97 feet (29.6m) and is thirty feet square (9m) at its base. The tower is open for visitors to climb to the top and take in the spectacular views!

Further along the river at Puddingmoor, if you have time enjoy a late afternoon dip at Beccles Lido. Beccles Lido is a heated outdoor swimming pool with separate heated toddler pools, sitting right next to the river. For the very brave hearted they are open for cold swims right throughout the year!

If you would like to complete this itinerary as part of a longer boating holiday, holiday cruisers can be booked from Pacific Cruisers in Chedgrave.

Places to stay nearby…